Border crossing – Mexico to Guatemala
Borders are just imaginary lines on maps, right? Wrong! As a South African, I tend to experience a few challenges while crossing a border or boarding a flight. Constantly travelling with a German has made me realise how unfavourable an African passport is.
On the 16th of November 2018, we crossed the border from Mexico into Guatemala. We took a collectivo from Comitan, Mexico to Frontera (border) La Mesilla. We were told that there is an “official” 350 MXN (R250 / 18 USD) pp exit fee for leaving Mexico, which we didn’t expect to pay.
The immigration offices between the Guatemalan and Mexican side are about 4 km away from one another. So we then drove in a taxi crossing the “no man’s land”. After paying an additional “official” 20 MXN (R14 / 1.30USD) pp to enter Guatemala, we took a tuk tuk to the bus stop then a chicken bus for 40 GTQ (R70 / 5 USD) pp to Quetzaltenango. This is when the real Central American adventure began! My first bumpy ride in the chicken bus immediately took me back to my jeepney experience in Manila, Philippines.
“Quetzaltenango” – is that not a mouthful? I struggled pronouncing it and was happy to learn that even though it’s the city’s official name, Guatemalans call it Xela. Thankfully, a much shorter nickname, derived from the old Mayan name for the city, Xelaju. The city lies at around 2,300 m in altitude, making it one of the highest cities in Central America.
We stayed at Casa I’X for 10 nights, you can make a booking on Facebook. Our hosts (now friends) Carlos and Ixmucané are awesome! From the moment we stepped in their place they went out of their way to make sure we were comfortable. From showing us around the city, helping me with a doctors appointment and shopping for warm clothes. Muchas Gracias, Amigos!
Their place is spacious and is in a great location, very close to Central Park. I spent a lot of time sitting on the terrace admiring volcanoes from afar. Santa Maria looms over the city and can be climbed in a single day.
In the evenings, Xela becomes alive with a lot of festivities. There were a many fireworks decorating the sky and a street parade to officially begin the festive season.
Xela is one of the top study destinations in Guatemala, with thousands of backpackers passing through every year to learn, improve or immerse themselves in the language.
We took Spanish classes for a week with Celeste, at a cost of 40 GTQ (R70 / 5USD) per hour. She was very patient with me.
Santa Maria Volcano
Santa Maria is active but hasn’t erupted since 1902. We took a chicken bus from Xela to hike up the volcano. Although there are tours offered, we hiked up independently so that we can walk at our own pace. The trail was quite slippery and muddy. I like to stop at my leisure to take photos, which works better without guides or large group.
The weather was warm for the first part but once we were about half way up, it become really cold. The hike was challenging for me and the worst part of it was that once we reached the top, the clouds had covered the view. Hiking up took 4.5 hours and another 2.5 hours to get down.
First Impression of Guatemala
Safety: A few people have reached out to me on my social media platforms, raising their concerns about the safety of Guatemala. In my opinion travel advisories and guides are often exaggerated. I didn’t feel unsafe in Xela or any of the places I explored.
The people: Not only are the people warm, welcoming, helpful but Guatemalans are very proud of their culture. They boldly wear their traditional attire daily. It’s really beautiful to see.
Why are foreigners in Central America called Gringos? During the Mexico-American war, the American troops were dressed in green uniforms. they started chanting “Green Go” as in “you in the green uniform, go back where you came from.” So it became “Gringo.”
Are you planning a trip to Guatemala? Leave a comment below, I’d love to help you plan.
Thank you for reading.